France
Burgundy & Beaujolais
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The nearly 200-year old estate had been through several name changes throughout its history, but had always remained a part of the extended Gouffier lineage. The property oozes history, as evidenced by its stunning, stone-domed cellar, which had once served as a bunker in the time of Napoleon Bonaparte.
With 5.5-hectares spread across eight appellations, the domaine was in need of a fresh start. Frédéric, who had worked previously at La Chablisienne for eight years, took about the task of reinvigorating the vines of Gouffier by instituting organic farming practices. While there are no vineyards in Fontaines—which sits between the villages of Mercurey and Rully—the varied sites throughout the area allow Frédéric and his partner, Benoit Pagot, to offer several expressions of Cote Chalonnaise.
The domaine contracts a single cooper—Doreau Tonneliers of Cognac—with Thierry Doreau making several trips to aid Frédéric and Benoit in finding the perfect match between barrel and wine. In fact, nearly 20% of the wood used to make the barrels used in the cellar come from the forest just beyond the walls of the property.
Recent vintages of Gouffier have reflected the intelligent approach of infusion, demonstrating perfect balance, a flawless integration of ageing, resulting in wines of energy and precision which have garnered attention and accolades in France.
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Cyril Audoin is the fifth generation in this family run Domaine that is virtually synonymous with the village of Marsannay. Cyril’s father, Charles, was a visionary in the Burgundy region, as he’d already selected and vinified the best parcels in the 1970s, before Marsannay was even an appellation. He and his wife, Marie-Françoise, an oenologist, began their domaine in Marsannay-la-Cote, in 1972. He continues his parents’ commitment to producing fine red, white and rosé Marsannays, primarily from single vineyards, that are well-structured and wonderfully mineral.
Domaine Chasselay
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Steeped in the fabric of the small village of Chatillon d'Azergues, the Chasselay family has been winemaking here since 1464. In Beaujolais's southern part, Lyon's wealthy families built their country escapes from the local limestone. The area is locally known as the Pierres Dorées, the land of the golden stones. Flatter than its' northern counterpart, the soil is more fertile, mixed with granite and a fair amount of limestone.
Domaine Chasselay extends over 13 hectares in Châtillon d'Azergues, Côte de Brouilly, and Brouilly. Fabien Chasselay, his sister Claire, and their father, Jean-Gilles, are pioneers of organic viticulture; they have been practicing since 2000 and certified in 2006. Fabien Chasselay trained under Bruno Clavelier in Vosne Romanée. Here, he adopted the idea of destemming his Gamay instead of the more traditional 100% whole cluster technique. The resulting wines are definitely “Burgundian” delicious, silky, yet saline.
Biodiversity is vital in the vineyards. Their natural philosophy includes cover crops between the vineyard rows, following the lunar calendar, indigenous yeasts, and no sulfur during fermentation (only at bottling). All wines ferment in concrete tanks and only the Crus' age in older demi-muids and barrels.
The wines have a stunning stylistic range, from the playful Beaujolais is not dead or Je t’aime mais j’ai soif to the more serious Crus's, the wines are always 'gourmand' in style, with darker fruit notes, and concentration, in a few words, simply stunning.
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The individual vineyards of this domaine are an apt reflection of the Cornin family. Each parcel carries a part of the family’s history in the Mâconnais. Les Chevrières holds the same plot Dominique’s grandfather planted more than 50 years ago. Clos Reyssié bears fruit from the same vines his father put to seed in 1938. The 100-year-old parcel in Les Serreudières reaches even deeper into the Cornins’ roots in Mâcon.
In the same manner that these old vines labor to yield the fruit, Dominique subtly guides the wine from vine to bottle with little intervention. He recently has been joined in this effort by his son, Romain. One of the youngest of a new generation of wine-producers, Romain is amazingly knowledgeable, having studied under his father as well as some of the most talented growers in the region.
The Cornins use only biodynamic farming methods, and their only motive is to give each of their vineyards the best chance to express its own terroir. All the wines are fermented in stainless-steel tanks, and the single-vineyard wines are aged in used oak barrels. They bottle both Mâcon-Villages from their respective villages, reflecting the individual parcels with each bottling. Cornin wines are voluptuous, rich and succulent, with a distinctively fresh and ethereal quality.
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The Janin family have been vinegrowers in the area for four generations and have been making wines since 1937. The domaine wines are all Moulin a Vent, one of Beaujolais' most important "Crus", and the only one not named for a village but rather a historic windmill. Here they farm (sustainably) several plots with different soils and vine ages within a locality named "Tremblay", a part of Romaneche -Thorins. Old Vines, Low Yields, Granitic Soils and whole clusters are just a few of the things that make these really great Beaujolais wines.
Rhone
Chateau de Montfaucon
There are very few wineries in the world with histories as ancient, deep and interesting as Montfaucon. The structure of the Chateau began with a fortification tower from the 11th century, to defend the Kingdom of France from the Roman/German Empire along the Rhone river. The entire story over the intervening 10 centuries is a bit much for this format, but I encourage anyone with interest to delve into it, you will be rewarded. Culture, history and tradition aside, (did I actually write that?) these wines are remarkable. The estate is centered in the Lirac AOC, just across the river from Chateauneuf du Pape. The white wines, some of the best I have encountered from the Rhone valley, are interstingly enough, very dominated by the Clairette variety, rather than Roussane, Marsanne and Viognier, and to great effect. The heavy and sometimes cloying texture of the other varieties is supplanted by vivacious, nervy, yet "packed" and complex flavors. The pinacle of this is the 145 year old vine bottling of pre-phyloxera 100% Clairette. But the Rhone is all about red wines and here is where they really shine. 60 hectares of very old, low yielding organically farmed vines provides an array of red Rhone wines hard to compete with. On the Lirac side of the river, the wines are noticeably different than Chateauneuf. There is a brighter, fresher quality about them, a point of difference that I enjoy personally very much. And then they have exemplary Chateauneuf, (shipping in the fall) so all bases are covered.
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Rising as a pillar of quality out of the soils of Gigondas is Domaine Santa Duc—an estate that’s history stretches back to 1874. Through five generations, the caretakers of the domaine have demonstrated a respect for the land, with Santa Duc ascending to prominence as a pioneer of organic viticulture in the region under the care of its indomitable vigneron, Yves Gras. The wines cultivated by Gras typify classic Gigondas—elegant, focused, polished
Loire Valley
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Laporte is a certified organic producer and the wine here is made in a very traditional, natural way, employing organic methods and always ensuring a sense of purity and excellence. In addition to Sancerre, Laporte produces beautiful Pouilly-Fume, Quincy and Chateaumeillant. Laporte also produces three wines under the Le Bouquet label: the floral and citrus-scented Sauvignon Blanc, a Cabernet-Franc offering fresh red fruits and soft hints of spice, and a fruity Pinot Noir rosé. Made with very high-quality fruit, these are versatile wines – a great value and a perfect introduction to the wines of the Loire Valley and the style of Laporte.
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Muscadet has experienced a huge resurgence in recent years, due in large part to the work of the "vignerons d'art" of which Louis was a founding member. It was he who first began leaving his wines sur lie (on their fine lees) through the winter. Since taking over for her father, Marie-Luce Métaireau and her husband, Jean-François Guilbaud, have illustrated their deep love of the land by reclaiming the vineyards of the vignerons d’art and piecing them back together to compose one of the most prized sites in all of Muscadet: the Grand Mouton vineyard. The 23-acre vineyard in the heart of Muscadet Sèvre et Maine enjoys perfect exposure between the two famed rivers that lend their names to the AOC, and ranges in vine age from 30 years old to a parcel planted in 1937. The vines are tended organically, and everything is harvested by hand — a rarity in this region, where 98% of all grapes are machine-harvested, and conventional farming with chemicals is the norm. The Black Label "Carte Noir" bottling from vines over 40 years, is perhaps the most emblematic of their work. The Carte Gris, a gift.
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Terres Blondes is an entry level bottling from the domaine made with purchased fruit only from growers close to the Marionnet family. The Marionnet family has owned the Domaine de la Charmoise since 1850. The winery is nestled in the village of Soings, 30 km south of Blois, deep in the forests of La Sologne. Here, the vines benefit from a mild climate and their unique situation, resting at the highest point between the Loire and Cher rivers. This ensures excellent maturity of the grapes and provides shelter against spring frosts.The vineyards of the domaine were replanted and expanded between 1967 and 1978 by Henry Marionnet, who became a renowned figure in the region in the 1960s. One of the first producers to make truly honest Gamay here during a time of over-production, Henry had a very clear vision and style that carries through to this day. His plantings cover nearly 150 acres of Gamay and Sauvignon Blanc.
Bordeaux
Chateau Andriet
Bordeaux Superieur
This small estate (9.7 Hectares) in Perissac was founded in 1850 by the Brothier family and has been in their hands ever since. The area originally was part of the Fronsac AOC but in 1976 was changed to Bordeaux /Bordeaux Superieur. Thierry Brothier and his son Nicolas run the property and produce merlot dominant bottlings. This is their basic bottling which is 88% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc. It's partly aged in oak for a year and a part in cement tanks. Simple and delicious.
Entre deux Mers
The Chateau dates from the early 19th century but was recently (2015) acquired by Yves Glotin, who also owns Chateau Goudichaud in Graves. The first order of business was paying attention to the vineyards and he is now restoring the Chateau to house a hotel and restaurant. The Entre deux Mers is a deceptive wine. At first it seems like many, in its simplicity and freshness. But there are nuances that make it unique. A few hours of skin maceration, three months in new, very light toast oak, (barely perceptible) and an unusually high % of Muscadelle at 20% .
Pessac-Leognan Blanc "Moulin de Couhins"
Delicious wines from an unusual estate. Originally a part of Chateau Carbonnieux until the 17th century, Couhins was purchased by INRA in 1968. INRA is the French national Institute for agricultural research. Here the researchers are studying viticulture and soil science. Then they make great wines! The Chateau is ideal for this as within it's 25 hectares are some very diverse soils. The whites are are grown on clay-Limestone. The Moulin de Couhins bottling is the second white of the Chateau and is 82% Sauv. Bl. and 18% Semillon. 25% is aged in both large and small barrels, while 75% is aged in steel with lees stirring.
Medoc
The Landureau family acquired this 25 hectare estate in 1934. Some of it is a horse farm and the rest vines. It dates back to the 11th century and has a restored Chapel from that era. The vineyard is planted half and half Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Two years of aging, one in oak and one in tank. Classic Medoc.
Haut-Medoc
This is quite an historical estate in Blanquefort owned by Charles de Montesquieu in the 17th century. As such it was destroyed in the French Revolution, yet rebuilt twice since. In 1985 the Earl and Countess de Colbert (no relation to Stephen!) became the 67th owners. 30 of its 40 hectares are under vine. Much was replanted at high density 20 years ago and is farmed "sustainably" according to and certified by the HVE. The blend is quite classic for the area; 60% Cab. Sauv., 30% Merlot, and 5% each Cab. Franc and Petite Verdot. It is aged in 25% new oak for a year, then long bottle aging prior to release
Saint Emilion Grand Cru
This estate, bordering Chateaux Pavie and La Gaffeliere, was acquired in 1995 by the D'Arfeuille family from Pomerol where they have been wine producers for 5 generations. 7.5 Hectares and planted 80/20 Merlot/Cab. Sauv.
Aging is a 1/3 new oak, 1/3 one year old and 1/3 tank for freshness
Saint Emilion Grand Cru
Location, location, location. While this may be most associated with the subject of real estate, there's no denying that the location of vineyards plays an important role in making wine. One Cheval Blanc West is where you will find this under the radar small Saint Emilion producer. With old vine parcels scattered about the appellation, the raw materials to make impressive wines is there in spades.
With vineyards bordering several famous estates such as Cheval Blanc and La Conseillante among others, their priviledged positions and vine age are as evident as is their intent to produce more forward wines. There is no extremely low yield, highly extracted and highly oaked wine here. In fact they keep a third in cement and the idea is to preserve freshness and improve early drinking. You can probably hold the wine 20 years if you want to, but the key is you don't have to.